IT’S THE WATER - FIREHOUSE BAY 2 - LEARN MORE

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Harbor Days Festival, 2008. Photo by Helle. Washington State Archives.

Harbor Days began in 1974 and was for many years sponsored by the South Sound Maritime Association.  Highlights of the event are the vintage tugboat races.  Held along Percival Landing, the event features crafts, food and entertainment.  The event has more recently been under the sponsorship of Olympia Kiwanis, but was cancelled in 2020.

For more information and 2021 updates, see:
https://www.harbordays.com/
https://historicalseaport.org/lady-washington-history/
https://www.maritimeoly.org/

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15,000 Years Later by Nikki McClure,  2014.

"15,000 years ago people started walking along this shore and traveled down the glacial scoured inlet. It is only 160 years since Olympia became a town and 100 years since the bridge to the Westside was built. Taking a boat is my favorite way to travel to town. It is the oldest way. Someday I will swim to town."

Nikki McClure lives in Olympia where she swims in the Salish Sea and picks berries all summer.

For more information on Nikki McClure see: 
http://nikkimcclure.com/

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Logman with log boom near port, 1930s. Keyes Family Collection, Washington State Archives.

Olympia Veneer was established in 1921. On the site where Springer Mill was previously located, the company was a cooperative that manufactured plywood. Ed Westman, a native of Sweden, had come to Tacoma from Sweden in 1909.  He was associated in 1920 with Defiance Lumber Company in Tacoma. J. G. Lucas of that company had interested Westman in the idea of organizing a cooperative plywood plant in Olympia. Westman traveled from Everett to Portland trying to interest friends and associates in the idea.  Westman was prominent in local Swedish lodges and enlisted members’ support. It was actually the second plant built exclusively for plywood production. The other was Elliot Bay Mill Co. at Seattle, established in 1920. Many of the first employees of Olympia Veneer went on to work in other plywood mills throughout the Northwest.

By January of 1921, they had enough stockholders to establish Olympia Veneer Co. It was formed with 200 co-owners all of whom were entitled to a job with the company. Each owner invested an initial $500 but before the business opened, they added an additional $500. If they could not afford the second $500, it was deducted from their paychecks until everyone had paid an equal amount. Evidently only about 120 of the 200 initial shares were sold.

The site for the plant was along the waterfront near State and Jefferson in Olympia which was served by rail service. The construction started in February, 1921. Lucas was president, Westman secretary, and Axel Erickson was Treasurer. The officers were initially chosen by the stockholders.  Of the initial stockholders, 100 were new to Olympia. Some of the original shareholders were Leonard Nystrom, Emil and Vern Nyman, Arnold Koutonen, Clarence Keating, and J.E. Mattson. The majority of the workers were Swede-speaking Finns. The firm was revolutionary in that all of the employees from President to the lowliest worker received the same salary.

To facilitate raising of the additional capital needed after the first few months of construction, the original stock certificates for $500 were exchanged for $1,000 certificates and stockholders were required to either contribute an additional $500 or work off the investment. About 100 of the stockholders worked at the mill.  Stockholders lived frugally, even sharing a boarding house. However, after the first year some of the shareholders sold their shares. By 1922, the cooperative had started hiring additional workers. Further funding for construction came from credit from local hardware man Earl Bean, and loans from individuals. They finally secured a $25,000 loan from Security Bank and trust Company. The plant began operation in August, 1921.

No orders were forthcoming for plywood when the business started so they manufactured slats for orange crates for the first four months, after which orders were received. Initially Pacific Mutual Door Company of Tacoma marketed their output which quickly reached 20,000 feet a day. Pacific Mutual was a cooperative sales company.

The mill was equipped with “a lathe, a veneer clipper, two dryers, equipment for mixing and spreading the glue, a veneer press, clamps for the panels and a second-hand sander.” The logs were steamed and then peeled. The firm began production of plywood which had either one or two good sides which dictated its use. The dual finish product was used in doors, while the one-sided boards were used for interior items such as drawers and cabinets. Plywood became a popular material for auto-parts such as running boards and floor boards.

The need for an experienced plant manager became evident and Bill Bailey was hired. He pioneered the use of drying “heartwood” from “sapwood” separately and markedly increased production. By 1923 Olympia Veneer became profitable. Shareholders increased their shares to as many as four shares each.  By 1927 they increased production of fir plywood to 21 square feet. In 1927, Olympia Veneer purchased a second plant in Aberdeen in 1927 which was experiencing financial difficulties. It was managed by Vern Nyman, an original Olympia Veneer stockholder. Despite the financial hard times of the late 1920s, Olympia Veneer was able to purchase the plant with Pacific Mutual Door Company and outright from Pacific Mutual Door in 1931. The Aberdeen mill closed for a time but re-opened in 1933. The firm weathered the difficult financial times well and enlarged the Olympia Plant in 1936.  An innovation, invented by Peter Skoog in 1933-34 allowed plugs to be inserted into the plywood. Olympia Veneer built a new plant at Willamina, Oregon in 1939 on a site donated by the town. The Aberdeen mill burned in 1940 and was replaced by a mill in Eugene, Oregon.

During World War II plywood mills produced material for PT boats, bulkheads and floor of ships, deckhouses, hulls and troop compartments. They built prefabricated houses for shipyards and factories.  It was used by the Seabees in the South Pacific and for prefabricated boats for the crossing of the Rhine. The operation proved to be profitable. On August 26, 1946 it was sold to St. Paul and Tacoma Lumber which also produced plywood. Olympia Veneer retained ownership of plants in Eugene and Willamina, Oregon under the name Associated Plywood Mills and sold those operations and others the firm had developed to United States Plywood Corporation in 1955. Many of the original stockholders of Olympia Veneer, 69 of whom remained with the company from its beginnings, went on to found or serve in important positions of several veneer companies throughout the Northwest.

St. Paul and Tacoma Lumber merged with St. Regis in 1957. A large expansion of the 40,000 square foot addition was added to the plant in 1948 which was built by Industrial Engineers and Contractors Incorporated of Tacoma and filling of tidelands was done concurrently with the expansion. A second large addition was constructed in 1956 to bring the mill up to a total of 250,000 square feet. It is believed these buildings were built by St. Paul and Tacoma between 1947 and the 1960s of the plywood itself and were used as storage and also for peeling and drying machinery. By 1967 the mills had closed and in 1971 the property was purchased by the Port of Olympia. The lumber mills and plywood manufacturers thrived on the Port fill area in the first part of the 20th century. The wood-processing industries were major employers in the Olympia economy. Ed Westman became president of the firm in 1922 and resigned in 1924 to organize Washington Veneer Co., which was organized on the Port fill on June 1, 1924. Washington Veneer located at Capitol Lumber Co. which was rebuilt in 1926-1927.  Washington Veneer produced its first plywood in 1925. Washington Veneer added a millwork factory in 1928, Plant No.2 for plywood in 129. The plywood factory opened in 1930 and produced all-spruce plywood to panel the interior of the luxury liner Bremen. Aircraft Plywood Corporation of Seattle purchased a controlling interest in Washington Veneer in 1929 and the factory had the contract to produce all of the plywood for Fisher Body Company which built car bodies for General Motors.

Despite the rush of orders when the mills in Seattle and Olympia were operating around the clock, the depression caused the Washington Veneer to close for three and a half years and was re-opened in August 1932 when it was purchased by United States Plywood Corporation. Washington Veneer began production of wallboard grade plywood in 1928 and began producing concrete form plywood in 1933. Washington Veneer produced plywood for buildings at the Chicago Century of Progress Exposition, (Hall of Science). It had re-opened in May, 1933. It was known from 1933 to July 1937 as Capitol Plywood Corporation and then reverted back to the name Washington Veneer. Olympia Veneer and Washington Veneer pioneered the use of soybean glue for plywood developed by I. F. Laucks of Seattle.

In 1939 Washington Veneer’s controlling interest stock was sold from United States Plywood Corporation to Weyerhaeuser Timber Company. Weyerhaeuser sold its interest in Washington Veneer Co. in 1947 to Georgia Pacific. In 1945 there were 725 workers employed at Washington Veneer.  In 1950 there were 1,028 persons directly employed in the plywood industry. None of the buildings associated with the plywood industry in Olympia remain. (Stevenson, Shanna, Senior Planner, Olympia Heritage Commission and Thurston Regional Planning Council. “Port Peninsula Sites/Structures Report,” Port of Olympia Contract, 2003.)

For more information, see:
https://www.apawood.org/data/Sites/1/documents/monographs/7-olympia-veneer-co.pdf
https://www.apawood.org/data/Sites/1/documents/monographs/11-washington-veneer-co.pdf
Historic newsreel footage of Veneer Mills from Zabel Theaters. Courtesy of Richard Talcott and the Olympia Historical Society & Bigelow House Museum.

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Capital Lake swimming area, ca 1968. Photo by Merle Junk. Susan Parish Photograph Collection, Washington State Archives.

Capitol Lake was completed in 1951 and for several years included a swimming area developed in the 1960s as part of Capitol Lake Park.  The swimming area was closed in the 1980s.

For more information, read: History of Capitol Lake
Image source

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Olympia Sea Level Rise Response Plan; City of Olympia/LOTT Clean Water Alliance/Port of Olympia, 2017.

The Olympia Peninsula has changed significantly with repeated dredging and fill over the years. In 2017, the City of Olympia joined with the Port of Olympia and LOTT Clean Water Alliance to complete a study that resulted in the 2019 Sea Level Rise Response Plan. The plan documents approximately 15 dredge and fill projects that have added more than 430 acres and nearly two miles of shoreline to downtown. (City of Olympia, LOTT Cleanwater Alliance and Port of Olympia; AECOM Consultants, "Olympia Sea Level Rise Response Plan--Executive Summary," page 1)

For more information, see: 
Olympia Sea Level Rise Response Plan
Sea level rise
https://www.thurstontalk.com/2012/11/11/history-of-olympias-shorelines/
https://m.olympiawa.gov/~/media/Files/PublicWorks/Water-Resources/tides%20and%20shoreline%20change.pdf?la=en

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Wooden "oyster" money issued for the visit of the U.S.S. Constitution by the Olympia Chamber of Commerce, 1933. Private collection.

Olympians issued their own wooden money in the 1930s when “Old Ironsides,” the U.S. S. Constitution visited in 1933. The Olympia Chamber of Commerce issued $2,900 worth of the “oyster money.” The “Dig the Canal” slogan refers to a project then being considered to dig a canal from Budd Inlet to link with Grays Harbor and the Columbia River.  

Read Shanna Stevenson’s article, “Dig the Canal: The Proposed Grays Harbor to Puget Sound.”

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Oyster farming, 1935. Thurston County Regional Planning Commission photograph, Washington State Archives.

“The Inlets of Puget Sound have optimal conditions for shellfish in terms of the salinity of the water, amount of diatoms, current flow, and water temperature. American Indian people gathered shellfish in Thurston County’s inlets long before Euro-American settled began to commercially harvest oysters and clams.” (Stevenson, Shanna. Thurston County: Water Woods & Prairies, Sandy Crowell and Shirley Stirling, eds. Thurston County, 2019, pg. 134-136.)

“Elder Reflection: The Preciousness of the Oyster, By Sally Brownfield, Squaxin Tribal Elder.

Frank Mossman was a pioneer hunter and game warden of both Mason and Thurston County, who wrote about the Indians gathering the Olympia oyster by hand. In his words: “In the winter, the Indians had sleds with iron tops. On the sleds, they built fires of pitch pine to light the beds as they selected the larger oyster. . . the coming of the white men to Oyster Bay, the methods of taking oysters changed. The white oystermen placed loads out onto the flats and raked and forked oysters onto the floats . . . Among the oysters the white men took, there was one big oyster to fifty small ones. They took on the best of the big ones and dumped the rest on the beach killing thousands of bushels of young oysters.” (Pioneer Reminiscences of Pioneer Life of Washington, Volume 2.)

The Olympia Oyster is the only native oyster in this area. They have always been special to me. At a younger period, I heard stories of how our people have harvested the Olympia oysters and how important they were to use.  Our people made sleds to lay on their bellies and carfully pick the little oysters, and used torches of tree pitch on the night tides.  They only took the biggest ones, leaving the others to grow.  I opened Olympia oysters from the time I was 13 to probably 21 as a job for a local oyster company. They truly are a precious resource.” (Croes, Dale, Rhonda Foster and Larry Ross, eds. “Qwu?gwes—the Qwu?gwes Archaeological Site and Fist Trap and Tested Homestead, Eleven-Year South Puget Sound and Community College Summer Field School Investigation with the Squaxin Island Tribe—Final Report.” 2012.)

Quoted by permission from “Squaxin Island Tribe: A People’s History of the Seven Inlets Steh Chass,” Squaxin Island Tribe Museum, Library & Research Center, 2018, p. 14.

To learn more see:
https://caseagrant.ucsd.edu/seafood-profiles/olympia-oyster
https://m.olympiawa.gov/city-services/parks/percival-landing/olympia-oyster.aspx
http://olympiawa.gov/~/media/Files/CPD/Hist-Preservation/Walking-Tours/Oyster-History-Tour.pdf?la=en
De Danaan, Llyn. Tideland Tales: Drama and Death on Oyster Bay

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Point No Point Canoe 2003 Joseph (wahalatsu?) Seymour, Jr Squaxin Island/Pueblo of Acoma.

Joe’s ancestral name, wahalatsu?, was given to him by his family in 2003. “wahalatsu? was the name of my great grandfather William Bagley.”

Joe started his artistic career by carving his first paddle for the 2003 Tribal Journey to Tulalip. Also in 2003, he carved his first bentwood box. After the Tulalip journey, he then learned how to stretch and make drums.

For more about Joseph Seymour, Jr. see:
https://joeseymourart.com/about-2/

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Two women with oysters, ca 1930s. Photo by Jeffers. Susan Parish Photograph Collection, Washington State Archives.

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(top) Cecelia Pell Bob dry smoking cockle clams.  Courtesy of the Squaxin Island Museum, Library & Research Center.
(bottom) Brenner Oyster Company, constructing oyster bed dykes, Totten Inlet, 1910.  Washington State Historical Society 1943.42.19963

“Food gathered from the Salish Sea was one of the business markers in trading with other tribes in the greater Northwest. The Olympia oyster, a hall mark of Squaxin cuisine, was smoked and dried with a particular type of wood form local forests or beaches. The smoked oysters were dried so hard that they were strung into necklaces for intertribal trading and bartering.” Quoted with permission from “Squaxin Island Tribe: A People’s History of the Seven Inlets Steh Chass.” Squaxin Island Tribe Museum, Library & Research Center, 2018, p. 14.

The lower photo was taken September 19, 1910 by Asahel Curtis for the Oregon and Washington Railway. The glass plate negative was included in an album, showing two workers from the J. J. (John Joseph) Brenner Oyster Company as they construct oyster bed dykes on Totten Inlet in Thurston County. One of the men stands, holding a shovel or rake, while the other worker bends down adjacent to an oyster bed. The workers wear protective boots and bib overalls and stand in shallow water. 

Founded in 1893, the J. J. Brenner Oyster Company had oyster lands in Thurston County and at one time an opening house downtown, where oysters were opened for consumption or shipment.  It is still operated by the Brenner Family.

For more information see:  
https://www.jjbrenner.com/
https://caseagrant.ucsd.edu/seafood-profiles/olympia-oyster
https://m.olympiawa.gov/city-services/parks/percival-landing/olympia-oyster.aspx
http://olympiawa.gov/~/media/Files/CPD/Hist-Preservation/Walking-Tours/Oyster-History-Tour.pdf?la=en
https://squaxinisland.org

Image source: https://www.washingtonhistory.org/research/collection-item/?search_term=1943.42.19963&search_params=search_term%253D1943.42.19963&irn=120504

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Port of Olympia logotype, 1920s. Courtesy of the Port of Olympia.

Formed in 1922, the Port of Olympia actually encompasses all of Thurston County.  This logotype was one of the early marketing emblems of the Port. The Port’s holdings now include the Marine Terminal, Swantown Marina & Boatworks, Market District, West Bay, East Bay and Northpoint property as Olympia Regional Airport, NewMarket Industrial Campus and Cleanwater Center in Tumwater and property in Lacey.

Learn more about the Port of Olympia.

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2012 Canoe Landing Ceremony for the Intertribal Journey. Photo from the Archives of the Squaxin Island Tribe, housed at the Squaxin Island Museum, Library & Cultural Center. Photo: Jeremiah George.

104 canoes landed on the traditional Squaxin landing site in downtown Olympia, kicking off a week-long potlatch ceremony at the Squaxin Tribal Community center in Kamilche, Washington. Ceremonies included cultural exchange of song and dance shared by indigenous participating groups. 

To learn more about the Squaxin Island Tribe – People of the Water see:
https://squaxinisland.org

Learn more about the 2012 Canoe Journey.

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Artesian Well at Olympia.  Photo courtesy of  Doyle Fanning.

“Olympia was historically dependent on artesian waters. Early settlers in Swantown and Tumwater used artesian springs for their main water supply. The artesian spring at Fourth Avenue and Main Street (now called Capitol Way) was the main community well where settlers, as well as the local Steh-Chass and visiting Native Americans, gathered to socialize. Settler accounts recall paying Native Americans to collect water here. The artesian well at Artesian Commons park, a former parking lot, is active. Another still flows at the corner of Olympia Avenue and Washington Street. A small park was constructed around another spring in the Bigelow Neighborhood.

The northeast end of Capitol Lake was the location of an artesian well until the construction of a new park that included changes to the shoreline. McAllister Springs, the main water source for Olympia, is fed by artesian wells, and the former Olympia Brewery is supplied by 26 artesian wells.

Efforts to protect and preserve the free flowing artesian well on 4th Ave in downtown Olympia began in 1991 when Jim Ingersoll, a local psychologist, called on the city council to acquire the well and develop it as a community park. Ingersoll's interest in the well started in a conversation with Dick Batdorf, co-founder of Batdorf & Bronson coffee roasting. Batdorf told Ingersoll that the secret to great coffee was great water – specifically artesian water. Subsequently, Ingersoll met at the Spar restaurant with Herb Legg and John Robinson both of whom had worked in the 1950s and 60s to protect the artesian wells in Watershed Park. Legg and Robinson worked behind the scenes to get an article published in the Olympian on February 24, 1992, calling for community support of the well. Ingersoll was flooded with phone calls offering time, talent, resources and money following the publication. Herb Legg and friends sponsored a public meeting at the Library where more than 50 people each donated $50. And a single $3000 donation followed the next day.

With hundreds of people using the well every day, community support grew to become "The Friends of Artesians", an informal organization of advocates who over the course of 20 years mapped and researched the history of artesian wells in Olympia, raised money to test water quality and make improvements to the site and kept the vision of a free flowing community well alive. In the fall of 2008, The Friends announced they would stop testing the water quality after February 2009. These actions renewed interest in protecting the well and led to the creation of H2Olympia, a non-profit organization.

In downtown Olympia, efforts to preserve the use of artesian water at the one remaining public well has been the mission of H2Olympia: Artesian Well Advocates. In 2011, the city of Olympia committed $50,000 towards improvements of an artesian well, located in a parking lot that was purchased by the city the same year. Renovations at the artesian well were completed in late 2011, including surface improvements, solar lighting, and a raised area to fill bottles. In spring of 2012, sea-themed mosaic artwork created by community members was also installed at the site of the well.”

For additional information see:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olympia,_Washington - Artesian_water
http://olympiawa.gov/city-services/parks/parks-and-trails/artesian-well-commons.aspx
https://www.thurstontalk.com/2013/01/20/olympias-artesian-well-flowing-water-from-the-heavens/

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Docks at Olympia, 1911. Washington State Historical Society, WSHS 1943.42. 20621.

“Black and white glass plate negative image of steamships at Olympia, Thurston County, WA docks, April, 1911. The sternwheelers, S.S. Multnomah and S.S. Greyhound are in image right. Another steamship approaches the docks in the center, and a small ship, the Sand Man, is in the left foreground. Asahel Curtis.” (Washington State Historical Society online Collections catalog)

For more information see:
Sand Man National Register Nomination:
http://www.tugsandman.org/
https://npgallery.nps.gov/AssetDetail/NRIS/98001018
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multnomah_(sternwheeler)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greyhound(sternwheeler_1890)

Image source: https://www.washingtonhistory.org/research/collection-item/?search_term=1943.42.20621&search_params=search_term%253D1943.42.20621&irn=111236

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"Olympia" brochure back cover published by the Olympia Chamber of Commerce, 1910. Private collection.

The 24 page booklet features illustrations and text about Olympia businesses, homes, recreation, climate, buildings, and sports.

The booklet is in the collection of the Washington State Historical Society. Visit the WSHS website.

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“Map of the Salish Sea & Surrounding Basin, Stefan Freelan, WWU, 2009.”  

“Map of the Salish Sea & Surrounding Basin, Stefan Freelan, WWU, 2009.”  

The name “Salish Sea” was proposed by marine biologist Dr. Bert Webber in 1988 to encompass the waters of Washington and British Columbi. The name was officially recognized by British Columbia and the State of Washington in 2009.  

Learn more about the Salish Sea and the map.